Chef’s Side Dish: Foundation for Success.

Getting back to how we build the cuisine in our Maverick kitchens. The French call the stocks “fonds” or foundations. A foundation on which to build. We recently received three whole big spear caught grouper from local fisher extraordinaire, Mark Marhefka, whose fish are popping fresh. Wow, the flesh was so firm, white…smells like a fresh ocean breeze. Chef Brendan broke them down, while taking time to teach Bobby. During this process the chefs made sure to save the jowl, belly trim and rib scraping (which Kevin is making into a terrine of lobster tarragon mousse right now!).

The cleaned grouper skeletons are gently simmering with blonde mirepoix, creating a clear mild fragrant fumet from which gumbos, chowders and consommés can be made. Reductions can be finished with either butter or cream. Creating a sauce for your fish from the fish is a truly joyful experience for chefs. We use the entire fish- nothing going to waste. One, it’s expensive and two, to waste the beautiful grouper is a culinary crime – they were probably 6-8 years old!

This same formula applies to the chickens we receive from Keegan-Filion Farm. We like to use them up and provide an outlet for Annie Keegan to sell some of the by-product of her flock—like chicken feet.

Keegan-Filion Farm Chicken Feet

At Slightly North of Broad those feet are going in the oven to brown up and be made into stock. They are reduced down to an intensely flavored sauce to be paired with the pan roasted chicken breast. The leg quarters we confit and offer on the lunch express.

Annie and Chef de Cuisine Russ Moore

The constant procuring of quality local products, breaking them down, making stocks, reducing, pairing with local produce – it all provides a wellspring of creativity.

Bye for Now!

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