Quality, consistency, creativity….. and value! For years at Slightly North of Broad we’ve been on a quest to source beef solely from outside the industrial food chain. We tried Argentinean grass fed beef in the late 90’s (ahead of the curve but the quality was ultimately lacking), and now all the beef served at the restaurant is either grass fed local from Stevenson Place Farms in Hodges, S.C. (burgers and corned beef for the Reuben) or from Carolina Beef Distributors in Gaffney, S.C. (tenderloins).

However, when it comes to a big, fat, juicy rib-eye or NY Strip, the local grass fed might not meet your expectations. For those cuts we have been serving groovy upscale Meyers rib-eye from Montana whose claim to fame is humanely raised, hormone and antibiotic free, genetically pure Red Angus that is fed an all grass and grain (not corn) diet . Whew, that’s a mouthful, tasty too! The Meyers beef is very similar to what we have come to expect from industrial corn fed beef, but it ain’t cheap.

My question to you is — does it matter? Are you willing to pay more (an additional $3 – $5), for no hormone, antibiotic free, etc., or would you prefer to spend a few dollars less for industrial beef?

Thanks, Chef

I had a lovely time with some of my chef buddies at McCrady’s “Planting the Seeds of Hope” event Sunday evening! Together, we prepared a farm to table dinner to raise money for Roper St. Francis. Each chef was paired with a local supplier and made a dish using the ingredient.

• Frank Lee of Slightly North of Broad with Mark Marhefka of Abundant Seafood
• Jacques Larson of Wild Olive with Pete Ambrose of Ambrose Farms
• Mike Lata of FIG with Celeste Albers of Green Grocer
• Sean Brock of McCrady’s with Maria Baldwin of Our Local Foods
• Ken Vedrinski of Trattoria Lucca with David Belanger of Caller Dave’s Sustainable Gourmet

Participating Chefs
Photo by Joan Perry

As always, I was impressed by my fellow chefs! What camaraderie we have among the chefs, farmers, fishers and clammers here in Charleston. It’s truly special.

The watermelon granita I originally made for the the grouper crudo turned out to be fantastic with the champagne as well!

Testing the Champagne Drink
Photo by Joan Perry

The dinner itself had an unplanned Italian flair, and the dining guests were very friendly and receptive which always makes for a fun night. Celeste Albers’ (of Green Grocer) daughter Erin was stunning. It’s great to spend time with our local suppliers in a less traditional environment.

Me with the lovely Albers ladies
Photo by Joan Perry

Chef Brock Leading the Way

Thank you Chef Brock for the invite! A wonderful time was had by all.

You order a bottle of wine at a restaurant having pondered and agonized over the wine list for a great deal of time. The wine must be the perfect accompaniment to the variety of dishes that have been ordered for dinner. You describe to your fellow diners how amazing the wines are from this recently discovered gem of a region; how subtle and nuanced this incredible juice will be. The sommelier brings the wine to the table. He presents the bottle’s label to be confirmed. There is such a sense of quivering anticipation as he reaches into his pocket for his wine tool, but then there is a wrenching sound, like the stylus needle scratching the surface of an old record, as he twists the bottle and unleashes it with a…screw top?

The debate about different wine enclosures has been raging since the introduction of the screw top – excuse me – “Stelvin Enclosure” was introduced to the wine bottle over twenty years ago. This probably mirrors the outrage of the clay amphora flagon fanatics in Roman times or the Medieval animal hide purists after the glass bottle was first introduced. 

Clay Amphora Flagon

Really though, the cork enclosure is a fairly modern creation credited to the monk Dom Perignon in Champagne about 400 years ago. How sticking a bit of old tree bark in the top of a bottle and praying that the wine doesn’t go bad is a good thing is beyond me. 

There are now glass stoppers, synthetic corks and even a plastic “Zork” invention, but I fall in favor on the side of screw tops for practicality’s sake. The wine will taste how the winemaker intended it to be when you drink it. There is also no chance that the wine will be “corked” or tainted by TCA (2,4,6,Trichloroanisole). This is the chemical that makes wine taste like cardboard or a wet dog.

Zorks in a Variety of Colors

To those self-professed Luddites who complain about the lost romance of the cork, just wait until the sommelier brings your wine to the table in a biodegradable milk carton shaped tetra-pak!  Progress and the Future are just around the corner.

Cheers!

Procuring quality products is always a challenge. Availability, quality, delivery and price are often moving targets. This year alone we have experienced floods in California; freezes in Florida that put a squeeze on tomatoes, bell peppers and lettuce; an earthquake in Chile that interrupted salmon transportation; a volcano eruption in Iceland that hurt salmon transportation from Scotland, and now the Gulf of Mexico oil leak putting shrimp, oysters  and everything  else it reaches under siege. And, to top it off there is serious consideration to close a large area of the Atlantic off Florida, Georgia and South Carolina to protect red snapper.

All of these pressures mean higher prices as inventories dwindle and speculation runs rampant. For us, this will translate into buying more local seafood.  You’ll see more wreckfish, wahoo, grouper, dolphin, swordfish, mackerel and amberjack on the specials sheets, but the uncertainty in the market is driving prices higher for local seafood as well.

Chef Lee With a Fresh King Mackerel

To feature a white fish at lunch for under $15 is especially difficult, so we’ve also been sourcing west coast seafood. We received some beautiful marlin yesterday, scallops from New Bedford, and halibut from Alaska and Nova Scotia. Shucked oysters from the Gulf, which we use for frying, continue to be our biggest concern.

Our hearts go out to the people in the oil stricken areas. Not to mention the critters, can you imagine Capers or Bulls Island coated in oil? What a spill like that would mean to our lifestyle here?

On a brighter note PEACHES are back!!! Tomatoes, field peas, figs, squash blossoms, okra  —Spoleto and summer have arrived —have a safe Memorial day weekend! 

Bye for now!!!

Sometimes there is a direct correlation between the pleasure I receive from a wine and the obscurity of its grape or origin.  Sommeliers have a bad name for being too finicky and snobbish about what they drink, but most of my colleagues in this industry are really pretty straight-forward. If it’s new and something you haven’t tasted before, it’s exciting.

I always say that when I am working I love to explore the world of wine, but when I am off I drink beer, and most of my fellow professionals follow that mantra: Champagne, then Miller Lite or Bust.  Even professional golfers don’t play golf on their day off. 

I do get really excited, however, when I get to taste a grape that I have never heard of before, or drink a wine from a region that I was previously unaware existed.  Recent new discoveries abound.

• The Jaquéres grape made by Aprèmont from Savoie, France – My “perfect new summer white” wine.

• St-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux made from Mauzac in Southwest France – My “you have start off every party with these bubbles” wine. 

• Gekkeikan Junmai Sake – My “smooth sake with a really cool cap that you can use for a cup, too” sushi picnic wine.

Yes, we are all like the character, Toad, in Wind in the Willows.  A new fad grabs your attention and leaves the old one in the dust.  Just like the motor car Toad lusts for and cries after it wistfully, 

“Pooop, Pooop!” 

It’s also comforting to know that once you are done with your expedition, the great classic wines of the world – the burgundies, bordeauxs, and barolos – will always be waiting for you once the fad moves on.

Cheers!

Today – This is what wine is all about for me.  It is a voyage of discovery.  Tasting wine is like going on a journey back in time to an undiscovered land.  Each wine I tasted this afternoon had what the French would term “terroir”- a sense of place, of ease in its own surroundings.  Tasting these wines created images in my mind of peasant women, crooked doors, rusty hinges, and quaint French villages surrounded by soft rolling hills.

Today – I had the chance to taste a series of wines imported to the US by a French couple.  When they moved here they couldn’t find any of the good affordable French wine they enjoyed drinking.  So they called up their winemaking friends in France and had them ship a few cases. Thus “Jenny and Francois Selections” was born.  What a pleasure!!  I found a treasure chest of wines and small producers. 

Today’s highlights include – to open the tasting – Chateau Haut Lavigne, a deceptively simple white blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from the Cote de Duras near Bordeaux.  Delicious, clean, fresh and crisp from the deft hand of a female winemaker, Nadia Lusseau.  This was springtime in a glass with a waxy golden exuberance.  The texture of the Semillon coats the mouth while the bright acidity of the Sauvignon competes for attention.

Next a Gamay from Guillot-Broux’s Macon-Cruzille, a region in Burgundy more famous for their rich white chardonnay.  Fresh red cherries, screaming with acidity, green peppercorns and rocky minerals.  My first thought upon tasting is to dash to one of the restaurant kitchens to see what the Chefs can do with some awesome local arugula.  It took me a while to start to comprehend this wine, but once I got passed the initial shock, boy, it was ON.  I like it when a wine takes time to slowly reveal itself and asks the taster to do some of the work.  Tasting wine should be a meditative not competitive experience!

Probably the highlight from today for me - a Cotes du Rhone from the village of Signargues.  Deep, rich, balanced, licorice, herb, a rush of sweet fennel, dark cherries.  It reminded me of an exquisitely lush Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but for a fraction of the price.  You will be seeing this Domaine Les Genestas very soon in the restaurants.  Wow!  I cannot recommend the Rhone region enough for those of you who seek out gems of great value.  I knew 2007 was a great Rhone vintage, but this juice is ridiculous.

Today – it was confirmed to me that the true joy of life is constant revelation.  There are surprises and adventures to be had at every turn.  Hang on to those favorite memories with all the clarity that you can muster, but never turn down the opportunity that life gives you to experience something new. 

Or – to put it another way – Never order the same bottle of wine twice!

Cheers!

Much of what I have been writing about on my blog thus far has centered around the hard work associated with supporting local suppliers. Another Charleston chef that understands and embraces this is Sean Brock of McCrady’s. Congratulations Chef Brock on winning the 2010 Best Chef Southeast James Beard Award!

Here is a little something that will blow your mind. On a recent trip to High Hammock, I took a picture of Chef Brock’s “garden” at Thornhill Farms near McClellanville.

Thornhill Farms

Where does he find the time? You are a wonder Mr. Brock! God Bless.

Check you later!

Getting back to how we build the cuisine in our Maverick kitchens. The French call the stocks “fonds” or foundations. A foundation on which to build. We recently received three whole big spear caught grouper from local fisher extraordinaire, Mark Marhefka, whose fish are popping fresh. Wow, the flesh was so firm, white…smells like a fresh ocean breeze. Chef Brendan broke them down, while taking time to teach Bobby. During this process the chefs made sure to save the jowl, belly trim and rib scraping (which Kevin is making into a terrine of lobster tarragon mousse right now!).

The cleaned grouper skeletons are gently simmering with blonde mirepoix, creating a clear mild fragrant fumet from which gumbos, chowders and consommés can be made. Reductions can be finished with either butter or cream. Creating a sauce for your fish from the fish is a truly joyful experience for chefs. We use the entire fish- nothing going to waste. One, it’s expensive and two, to waste the beautiful grouper is a culinary crime – they were probably 6-8 years old!

This same formula applies to the chickens we receive from Keegan-Filion Farm. We like to use them up and provide an outlet for Annie Keegan to sell some of the by-product of her flock—like chicken feet.

Keegan-Filion Farm Chicken Feet

At Slightly North of Broad those feet are going in the oven to brown up and be made into stock. They are reduced down to an intensely flavored sauce to be paired with the pan roasted chicken breast. The leg quarters we confit and offer on the lunch express.

Annie and Chef de Cuisine Russ Moore

The constant procuring of quality local products, breaking them down, making stocks, reducing, pairing with local produce – it all provides a wellspring of creativity.

Bye for Now!

I love working with chefs! They remind me of the men who served in the Royal Navy with my Dad back in the day when they still had a daily rum ration and a pack of twenty Players cigarettes. They are a breed unto themselves – surly, salt of the earth, strong-willed yet utterly dedicated to their craft. They can be difficult on approach, but once you have gained their trust and become part of the inner-circle, you have a bond for life…kind of like the Avatar when he picks his bird and then rides it through the floating mountain range….just don’t ever look too closely in their eyes!

Beyond that hardened “Cuisine Commando” exterior there is a decidedly nuanced and dare I say feminine side that is extremely sensitive to the artistry and delicate nature of creating great dishes. Balance, harmony, texture with a hint of the unexpected is what I look for when it comes to great wine, but the same could be said for great chefs too. Executive Chef Frank Lee is one of those most extraordinary characters who can create such fine food. Working on putting together the menu for a wine dinner with Frank is like being a player in a symphony of sound and flavor.

There are lots of details that have to be taken into account when planning a wine dinner. Dates, guest speakers, room availability, glassware, reservation sheets, etc., but the most important thing is the wine and food pairings. This is one of the most enjoyable parts of my job; the times I have the chef to myself with all of his attention focused on the taste of the wines in front of him.

Chefs make the best wine tasters. Their palates are so well tuned. They are constantly tasting and seasoning in the kitchen, so they develop incredibly sophisticated palates. Whenever I hold wine trainings or blind tasting competitions it is always the teams from the culinary side that win. It just comes naturally after all that practice in the kitchen.

When we are creating a menu, we will taste a wine together and just see what jumps to mind. Most often it is something visceral, an image or snapshot, more than specific flavors that we discuss. It takes an open mind and a willingness to just verbally riff on the flavors and textures that evolve from tasting wine.

Most recently we hosted the winemaker from Elk Cove Vineyards in Oregon for a wine dinner at the Old Village Post House, and I have to say that we created some of the best pairings that we have done lately.

Elk Cove Vineyard Wines

My absolute favorite was a soft shell crab salad with local pea shoots and hard boiled eggs paired with the 2008 Pinot Gris. It went perfectly together. Both the food and wine in harmony to create something more flavorful than the sum of their parts separately. That is the moment when I feel most gratified – when a physical pairing of food and wine – something that is so simple yet elusive – turns into true alchemy, and leaves the soul feeling nourished and nurtured with a big smile!

Cheers!

So, I was at the Old Village Post House at 7:45 am checking up on Jim (our Chef de Cuisine), opening coolers, giving the white glove test. Elizabeth is way ahead of me cleaning rooms, windows, getting the place ready for the day. Since Carol has coffee ready for the Inn guests, I help myself to a cup. Maybe it was the coffee, but a light goes off, I and grab Jim and the two of us head over to Shem Creek to see if we can catch Kimberly at Raul’s Seafood!

We are able to find her before she leaves to make her daily deliveries to restaurants all over town. It’s always great to see Kimberly. We have been working together for many years. She always has quality products, and today was no different. The crabs were beautiful!

Jim with Kimberly

South Carolina has been in a draught for many years, but thanks to a rainy winter the crabs are plentiful this year. The town has gone soft shell crazy! I like to dip ‘em in buttermilk then White Lily flour and then gently pan fry them in butter until crunchy and brown. Add a few lemon wedges, some local asparagus, a glass or two of Grüner Veltliner and I’m good to go. The MSK restaurant chefs have prepared the softies in a variety of ways. One special featured beer battered soft shells with sweet potato and goat cheese custard, okra, house made tasso, pickled spring onions. Another evening the softies were buttermilk fried with local pea shoots, toasted almonds, hard boiled egg, grape tomatoes, carrots, herbs, red wine vinaigrette.

As I clean soft shells, a small one might end up on the grill and that’s good too, a little garlic, chili paste, lemon and down the hatch! Although chefs feed others all day (staff meal is an important part of our rhythm and a subject we’ll discuss later), we rarely sit and eat. Taste, taste, taste: crispy duck, green pea risotto, crab salad, chocolate, ham, herb butter, pâté, vinaigrette, pesto….endless tasting. Hey, continually tasting is the only way to check for quality, consistency and to develop your palate. Things change. What was good yesterday might have soured, or new guy screwed it up. The fewer variables in the rhythm of mise en place marks a fine kitchen. Consistency and quality provide the foundation for creativity. Everything we do in the kitchen flows from that.

Enjoy the softies! Bye for now! FLEE