I love working with chefs! They remind me of the men who served in the Royal Navy with my Dad back in the day when they still had a daily rum ration and a pack of twenty Players cigarettes. They are a breed unto themselves – surly, salt of the earth, strong-willed yet utterly dedicated to their craft. They can be difficult on approach, but once you have gained their trust and become part of the inner-circle, you have a bond for life…kind of like the Avatar when he picks his bird and then rides it through the floating mountain range….just don’t ever look too closely in their eyes!

Beyond that hardened “Cuisine Commando” exterior there is a decidedly nuanced and dare I say feminine side that is extremely sensitive to the artistry and delicate nature of creating great dishes. Balance, harmony, texture with a hint of the unexpected is what I look for when it comes to great wine, but the same could be said for great chefs too. Executive Chef Frank Lee is one of those most extraordinary characters who can create such fine food. Working on putting together the menu for a wine dinner with Frank is like being a player in a symphony of sound and flavor.

There are lots of details that have to be taken into account when planning a wine dinner. Dates, guest speakers, room availability, glassware, reservation sheets, etc., but the most important thing is the wine and food pairings. This is one of the most enjoyable parts of my job; the times I have the chef to myself with all of his attention focused on the taste of the wines in front of him.

Chefs make the best wine tasters. Their palates are so well tuned. They are constantly tasting and seasoning in the kitchen, so they develop incredibly sophisticated palates. Whenever I hold wine trainings or blind tasting competitions it is always the teams from the culinary side that win. It just comes naturally after all that practice in the kitchen.

When we are creating a menu, we will taste a wine together and just see what jumps to mind. Most often it is something visceral, an image or snapshot, more than specific flavors that we discuss. It takes an open mind and a willingness to just verbally riff on the flavors and textures that evolve from tasting wine.

Most recently we hosted the winemaker from Elk Cove Vineyards in Oregon for a wine dinner at the Old Village Post House, and I have to say that we created some of the best pairings that we have done lately.

Elk Cove Vineyard Wines

My absolute favorite was a soft shell crab salad with local pea shoots and hard boiled eggs paired with the 2008 Pinot Gris. It went perfectly together. Both the food and wine in harmony to create something more flavorful than the sum of their parts separately. That is the moment when I feel most gratified – when a physical pairing of food and wine – something that is so simple yet elusive – turns into true alchemy, and leaves the soul feeling nourished and nurtured with a big smile!

Cheers!