Understated aplomb: High marks for High Hammock Author: Becky Billingsley MyrtleBeachCompass.com 02/05/2009 You can listen to corporate rhetoric about mission statements and daily goals and what guests can expect, but in the end it all reduces down to a diners' checklist. Was the food delicious? The service accommodating? Good value for the price? And will the experience be the same next time? High Hammock, a new entry in the Grand Strand dining scene that migrated up from Charleston's Maverick Southern Kitchens, is so far pleasing diners with high marks in all the categories. High Hammock in Pawleys Island has warm southern coastal flair. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.High Hammock in Pawleys Island has warm southern coastal flair. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.When the porch is finished the restaurant will seat 270, but for now with the chilly weather the indoor dining rooms have plenty of room. Every room has a genteelly casual southern coastal ambiance. Upstairs, which is a lovely expansive space perfect for large group meetings and receptions, is called the Waverly. The adjacent upstairs sun porch, which has a stunning treetop view of live oaks, is the Litchfield Room. Below the Litchfield is the Santee, which is the downstairs side porch featuring loads of multi-pane windows. An adjacent private dining room with room for eight is the Winyah. Also downstairs is the Tavern, which offers bar seating and several tables (regular tables, not high cocktail tables), and The Main Dining Room. That really is its name - The Main Dining Room. Each room has its own flair: The Waverly is rich with jewel tones and airy creaminess, and a gorgeous pine floor was reclaimed from under seven layers of paint. The Santee offers cherry wood and warmly cool blue upholstery with a Colonial spindleback banquette at one end of the room. The Main Dining Room is cozy with vivid reds, coastal photography and beach scavenger finds on the rough vintage wood mantel. A low beamed ceiling propagates the Colonial feeling, and a few touches hearken to the area's Native American heritage. Members of the Maverick Collection, which is the Maverick Southern Kitchens diner loyalty reward program, receive an amuse bouche with dinner, such as this tuna salad on Crostini. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.Members of the Maverick Collection, which is the Maverick Southern Kitchens diner loyalty reward program, receive an amuse bouche with dinner, such as this tuna salad on Crostini. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.Tables are set with halved linen napkins serving as placemats. Each setting has two glasses - one for wine, one for water - two long-tine forks, a pleasantly heavyweight knife, and a bread plate with a butter knife. Chef de Cuisine Mark Ross popped out of the kitchen with a treat of warm-from-the-oven Beer Bread, a recipe he grew up on. It's a specialty of his mom's, Mayson Ross of Rock Hill, and mom is to be commended for the dense and soft bread with its crispy crust. Soon server Giovanni San Semio shows up with an amuse bouche of Tuna Salad on Crostini. The amuse bouche is one of the perks of having one of Maverick Southern Kitchen's diner loyalty cards (http://www.mavericksouthernkitchens.com/msk/collection.html). Restaurant Manager and Events Coordinator Sam Murphy explains the Tuna Salad is made with house-made mayonnaise, and the oil in the mayonnaise was used to poach tuna bellies. The double-use, Sam says, is an example of how High Hammock likes to practice a "use every part of the product" mentality. The restaurant, and its Executive Chef Frank Lee, also have a "use local products whenever possible" mindset. Sam says it's common for Chef Lee to be out first thing in the morning choosing the best-looking lettuce at local truck farms. They use local shrimp, grass-fed beef, eggs, flounder, and produce. The Charcuterie Plate features house-made pates, terrines, sausages and other meats, plus pickled vegetables. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.The Charcuterie Plate features house-made pates, terrines, sausages and other meats, plus pickled vegetables. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.Most recipes are house-made, and a good example is on the daily Charcuterie Plate ($12.95). While the offerings change, on a recent Thursday the collection of savory nibbles included jumbo caper berries, cornichons, bread and butter pickle salad, petite salad with sherry wine vinegar and walnut oil dressing, Shiitake Mushroom Terrine (mildly flavored, creamy consistency), thin slices of house-smoked ham sided by dollops of two kinds of mustard and jam, duck liver pate with a robust earthiness, Pork Rillettes, Italian Sausage and a luscious Country Pate studded with dried cherries and pistachios and rimmed with bacon. This is a good dish to enjoy with a glass of scotch or wine and linger over with a couple of friends. If your palate favors dairy more than meat, High Hammock also has a daily cheese plate ($9.75), such as Aged Gouda, Cardona Chevre and Bleu d'Auvergne served with fresh fruit. Other small plate choices include House-Smoked Salmon ($8.75), Sautéed Gnocchi ($8.50), and Oyster Stew ($8.75). Chef Frank Lee’s Shrimp and Grits is infused with fresh flavors, from the stone-ground yellow grits to the house-smoked ham, house-made kielbasa and tomato concasse. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.Chef Frank Lee’s Shrimp and Grits is infused with fresh flavors, from the stone-ground yellow grits to the house-smoked ham, house-made kielbasa and tomato concasse. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.The hearty Charcuterie is considered a medium plate, and another choice in that range is Shrimp and Grits ($16.50). The dish is presented vertically and features local stone-ground yellow grits, local shrimp, julienne slivers of that house-smoked ham, house-made kielbasa, tomato concasse, green onions and Cajun seasonings. It is not Chef Lee's spicy version with scallops from Slightly North of Broad. This one is not as soupy, not quite as spicy, and redolent of farm-fresh flavors. Eight main courses are offered, including a popular Grilled Barbecued Tuna ($20.50 version or the larger $25 serving). The Sautéed Duck Breast ($25) is splendid and simply luxurious with a skinless sliced duck breast on honey thyme reduction, tender and succulent leg confit dressed in orange glaze, sweet and creamy butternut squash casserole, and perfectly cooked tender and juicy asparagus spears that make you realize why so many people like asparagus. Tender and succulent duck meat is presented two ways and accompanied by savory side dishes of asparagus and squash casserole. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.Tender and succulent duck meat is presented two ways and accompanied by savory side dishes of asparagus and squash casserole. Photo by Keith Jacobs, 803 Labs.You could also choose a daily special, which might be Grilled Local Natural Grass-fed Ribeye with warm marinated mushrooms, Maverick potatoes and tiny green beans; or Sautéed Local Flounder with white beans, Thornhill Farms kale and tomatoes. Even if you take them home to enjoy later, desserts are worth consideration. They are not fanciful, but they are steadfast in their sweet seduction. Black Bottom Pie ($6) is simple with its three layers (two chocolate, the top vanilla) but lavish in flavor delivery, as are Key Lime Pie with Pecan Sandy crust and passion fruit sauce; or Maverick Strawberry Shortcake with cornbread pudding, strawberry syrup and vanilla ice cream. The evening (or lunchtime, or, starting Feb. 8, brunch time) ends with a well-paced sense of fine food delivered well. You begin to see servers and managers and chefs not as their titles imply, but as local artisans devoted to their culinary crafts. The final tick on the checklist is complete, and the grade is A+. These folks get it. High Hammock is in the Pawleys Island Hammock Shops at 10880 Ocean Highway. The number is (843) 979-0300.